We can see the line between gendered dressing blurring as see the days of Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI go by. Designers are borrowing and swapping elements that were typically considered masculine or feminine to create a new identity. As was the case in Shantnu & Nikhil’s recent showcase titled, ‘You’.
For their collection, ‘You’, the designers break away from the restrictive and conventional influences of Indian couture to embrace a new embodiment of femininity in a masculine world. The collection also sees the introduction of the ‘Valour Crest’ which is an anti-decorative pattern adapting into a modern sartorial outlook replete with sharp innovative tailoring, avant-garde layering, and signature leather accents. The sensational Tripti Dimri made her debut runway appearance in a signature Shantnu & Nikhil draped gown encrusted with obsidian rhinestones.
The Shantnu & Nikhil aesthetic is always heavy with military and masculine influences. Is there a change with your upcoming collection, ‘You’?
Our upcoming collection ‘You’ marks a significant evolution in our aesthetic while staying true to our core values. While military and masculine influences have been integral to our past collections, “You” embraces a more nuanced approach. Grounded in individuality and fortitude, our new expression & embodiment of femininity in a masculine world. We depart from conventional Indian couture, infusing our signature sartorial excellence with bold elements of both femininity and commanding military motifs. This fusion reflects our unwavering commitment to earthy textures and rugged elegance, shaping a narrative that celebrates the diverse spectrum of human expression.
Tell us about the new silhouettes in this collection, and how they are a ‘departure from conventional influences of Indian couture’.
In our latest collection, “You,” we’ve introduced new silhouettes that depart from the conventional influences of Indian couture. Embracing a liberalized form of self-expression and transformation, “You” celebrates a culture of quiet luxury. We’ve incorporated a palette dominated by rust and black, infusing fine leather and architectural motifs for a modern twist. One notable silhouette is ‘The Battalion Jacket,’ which exemplifies the essence of “You” with its rich textiles, power shoulders, clinched waistlines, and metallic accents, all paired with unconventional trims. This departure signifies our ongoing commitment to evolving our design language while staying true to our brand’s identity.
Tell us about the S&N Valour Crest and what it symbolises.
The valour crest holds immense significance in our ethos, weaving its way into my life since childhood, surrounded by the wisdom of scholars and the embodiment of authority. Wearing it became my sole avenue to possess one, giving me a perpetual sense of uniqueness and specialness. A crest, narrating the powerful story of one’s strength, elevates the spirit, making every moment extraordinary. The Valour crest, traditionally a masculine symbol of authority, finds a dynamic counterpart in the incredible strength possessed by women globally. Whether at work, home or in any pursuit – their resilience is undeniable. This essence emanates from androgynous ideals, a concept steadfastly championed by the brand. For us, it represents a singular ethos, celebrating the unity of humanity in its diverse expressions.
Is ‘The Battalion Jacket’ by Shantnu & Nikhil, the star piece from the collection? Can you tell us about its latest iteration and the craft behind it.
Drawing from years of influence shaped by egalitarian and androgynous ideals, ‘The Battalion Jacket’ replaces embroidered images of couture with structured tailoring and signature leather accents. This new collection establishes a profound connection with women who defy traditional couture norms, eschewing excessive embellishments in favour of understated luxury. This sartorial departure also celebrates the brand’s strong romance with a jacket that exemplifies this New Woman in all its salient elements: Rich textiles, power shoulders, structured waist, metallic highlights teamed with leather and unconventional trims: A design language that we own and celebrate yet again.
What for you is the biggest takeaway from this collection?
You it is not merely about fashion; it is a celebration of the indomitable spirit of women everywhere. Our collection is designed for women who embody individuality and strength. It resonates deeply with those who reject traditional couture norms and embrace understated luxury. We aim for women to not only admire our collection but also to feel empowered to wear it to any occasion that resonates with them. Whether it’s a formal event, a casual gathering, or a moment of personal celebration, we want our pieces to seamlessly complement and enhance the wearer’s style and confidence.
In the recent past big-name designers, like yourself, have expanded into the prêt and streetwear space. What are your views on this trend, and what do you feel is the response to this expansion?
We see the expansion into pret and streetwear as a natural evolution, allowing us to reach a broader audience while staying true to our design ethos. This trend reflects a shift towards accessibility and inclusivity in fashion, catering to diverse preferences and lifestyles. The response to our expansion has been overwhelmingly positive, as it enables us to offer our distinctive aesthetic to a wider range of customers, further solidifying our brand’s presence in the industry. It’s an exciting opportunity for us to explore fresh avenues of creativity while staying true to our brand’s aesthetic and values.
All Images: Courtesy Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI.
