Sherpa Tenzing Norge conquered Mount Everest in 1953 with Edmund Hillary.
Sherpa Tenzing Norgi, a name that comes to hear the snowy peaks of the Himalayas, countless stories of courage and a picture of a life that is no less than a cinematic saga. He was an ordinary Sherpa who created history on 29 May 1953 with New Zealand mountaineer Edmund Hillary, conquered the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest. It was not just a climb, but was a place of human emotion, courage and hard work, which included Tenzing among the 100 most influential people of the 20th century of Time magazine. Every page of his life is full of struggle, courage and flight of dreams.
A star grew up in the lap of Himalayas
Tenzing Norgi was born in May 1914, but his exact date of birth was a mystery. In his autobiography, he told that he was born into a Sherpa family in Tengbocha in Khumbu region of Nepal. But according to his son Jamling and other sources, he was born in Tse Chu in the Cama Valley of Tibet, and he grew up in his childhood. Later, he came to Khumbu to work for a Sherpa family. He is believed to be born in 1914 based on the ‘year of rabbit’ of Tibetan Almanac.
After Everest’s conquest, Tenzing decided to celebrate his birthday on 29 May, as the weather and crops of that day match his memories. The real name of Tenzing was Namgyal Wangdi, which was changed by Lama Nagawang Tenzin Norbu, the head of the Rongbook Math, which means ‘Tenzing Norgi’, which means ‘rich, fortunate and a follower of religion.’ His father Ghang La Mingma was a Tibetan Yak shepherd, and mother Dokmo Kinjom was also Tibetan. Born at number 11 in 13 siblings, many siblings of Tenzing died at an early age.
Tenzing ran away from home 2 times in adolescence. First Kathmandu and then Darjeeling, which was the stronghold of Himalayan campaigns at that time. At the age of 19, he made his hideout in the Sherpa community in Tu Song Basti in Darjeeling and later gained Indian citizenship. He also tried to become a monk in the Tengboche monastery, but his heart was more on the peaks of the mountains.
Everest (Gaurishankar) is seen in this map of 1890.
How to step in the world of mountaineering?
Tenzing began in the world of mountaineering in 1935, when at the age of 20 he got a chance to join the British Mount Everest Recording Campaign led by Eric Shipton. His lively smile and friend Ang Tharake’s recommendation gave him this opportunity. Subsequently, in the 1930s, he joined Tibet as a height porter in 3 British Everest campaigns.
In the 1940s, Tenzing worked as a ‘Batman’ for Major Chapman in Chitral (now Pakistan). His first wife Dawa Futi died here. During the partition of India in 1947, he returned to Darjeeling with his two daughters, Pem Pem and Nima. Meanwhile, he traveled by train wearing Major Chapman’s old uniforms without tickets. Tenzing used to continue to do such impeccable acts.
In 1947, Tenzing became part of a failed Everest campaign, where he had to return from 22,000 feet due to the storm. The same year, he saved the Sardar Wangdi Norbu of the Swiss campaign and climbed the peak of Kedarnath (22,769 ft) in the Garhwal Himalayas. In 1951, he joined the British Everest Recording Campaign, which laid the foundation of the big stage for him.
… and steps on Everest
In 1952, Tenzing participated in Swiss campaigns, which was the first serious attempt to climb Everest from the southern route of Nepal. In May 1952, Tenzing and Raymond Lambert set the highest climb of the time by reaching an altitude of 8,595 meters (28,199 ft). The campaign opened a new route for Everest and Tenzing was first recognized as a complete campaign member. Their friendship became so deep with Lambert that it persisted for a lifetime.
In 1953, the British campaign led by John Hunt gave Tenzing a new opportunity. This campaign was a major effort with 362 porter, 20 Sherpa guide and 10,000 pounds. During the campaign, Hillary fell into an ice crack, but Tenzing saved his life by holding a rope with his ice ax. This incident further strengthened Hillary’s trust in Tenzing.
On 26 May, Tom Bordeylon and Charles Evans tried to reach the top, but returned from 300 feet below due to the malfunction of the oxygen system. Subsequently, Hunt assigned Tenzing and Hillary the final climb. On May 28, after stopping for two days on South Coal amidst the icy storm, he put a tent at 27,900 feet. On 29 May 1953, at 11:30 am, Tenzing and Hillary stepped on the summit of 8,848 meters high Everest.
Hillary took the historical picture of Tenzing, in which he is standing with an ax of his snow. Tenzing later revealed in his autobiography that Hillary first reached the peak, and he immediately after him. This was a shared victory, which made both of them famous worldwide.
A small avalanche scene on Mount Everest.
International Everest Day began to be celebrated on 29 May
May 29 is celebrated every year as International Everest Day, which pays homage to this historical achievement of Tenzing and Hillary. This day not only celebrates human courage and passion in the world of mountaineering, but also underlines the incomparable contribution of the Sherpa community. On this day, adventure, seminars and trekking campaigns are organized around the world, which inspire the new generation that no floor is impossible, if there is spirit and courage in the heart.
Unbearable honor after Everest climbing
After Everest climbing, Tenzing received unmatched respect in India and Nepal. Queen Elizabeth II of Britain gave Hillary and Hunt the title of Knight, but Tenzing was awarded the George Medal. Many people believe that they too should have received the title of Knight. King Tribhuvan of Nepal awarded him the order of the Star of Nepal, and the Government of India gave him the Padma Bhushan in 1959. In 1963, the Soviet Union gave him an honorary degree of ‘Meritated Master of Sport of the Ussr’, which for the first time to a foreigner.
In 1954, Tenzing became the first field training director of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute at Darjeeling. In 1978, he founded the Tenzing Norge Adventures, who today runs his son Jamling. In 2003, the Government of India named the Tenzing Norge National Adventure Award in his honor. Tenzing Peak in Nepal, Tenzing Montess on Pluto, and Tenzing-Hillary Airport of Lukla are symbols of his immortal heritage.
Know how was Tenzing’s family life
There were three marriages of Tenzing. His first wife Dawa Futi died in 1944, from whom he had two daughters, Pem Pem and a son Nima Dorje, who passed away at the age of 4. The second wife Ang Lahmu was the cousin of his first wife. Third wife Dakku had 3 sons, Norbu, Jamling, and Dhame and a daughter Daked. Jamling conquered Everest in 1996, and his grandson Tashi Tenzing also carried forward this legacy.
Tenzing’s life became an example
Tenzing died on 9 May 1986. His last rites were performed at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, which was his favorite destination of his life. His wife Dakku died in 1992. The life of Sherpa Tenzing Norge is an example that teaches us how high dreams are, they can be touched with hard work and courage. His journey from a simple porter to the summit of Everest is not only the pride of the Sherpa community, but is an inspiration for the whole world.
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